Jim's Serious Off-Road Buildup
Tips for Scout II's w/33" tires
NOTE: I got some feedback on these buildup pages about costs. Well, I do understand that we are not rich,
but if you are willing to do the majority of the work yourself I feel that these modifications are within the financial
means of most of the Scout II owners ($6000+ asumming you have not done any of these item, remember $2000 of this is in tires,
wheels, Warn winch and bumper). There is no reason that these modifications need to be done all at the same
time. Maybe start with the body repair, later add a lift kit, save up for the most expensive item (the differentials) and
bite the bullet and just do it!, a few months later find that dana 300 t-case and buy it, etc. Remember when you are done you will have
a vehicle capable of running 90% of the trails in the U.S. and don't forget the reliability factor you just built into your Scout with all
these modification (new diff.'s, drive shafts, bearings, tires, wheels, etc.) Now, I am going to attempt
to put an APPROXIMATE cost for each item not including the labor (Since we are going to be doing most of the labor ourselves right!).
Please don't e-mail me about how I blew it on the price. I am just trying to give ball park figures so that you can get an idea
what the costs are for a particular item (I am trying to error on the high side so you will be happy when you find it for less!).
Thanks for taking the time to read this and don't forget to send (e-mail) me pictures!
Step 1 Body (assuming you have a Scout II with some rust)
Purchase fiberglass quarter panels ($380 pr).
Purchase sheet metal replacement parts as needed (i.e. driver and passenger body mounts $65 from AT Scouts).
Remove top and install quarter panels.
Cut out and weld in new sheet metal parts.
Primer Scout with Black Zinc Chromate (rust inhibitor $100 a gallon).
Replace Top.
Optional
Paint Scout (I prefer a polymer paint for its flexibility and ease of rubbing out trail scratches).
Step 2 Front End (Assumes you have a dana 44 w/disc brakes)
Remove front Axle.
Tear down Axle.
Twist front axle for improved caster and reduced drive line angle. (you can purchase this
twisted housing from Jim Maulis ($225 no core req.) on my vendors list)
Install E-Z Locker ($300) and 4.10 gears ($200).
Reverse Shackle($50 misc. steel, $40 for bushing set) the Front Suspension.
Install 3-4" lift Springs($550 w/shocks Note: skip the dropped pitman arm).
Fabricate Binder Bunch increased ground clearance U-Bolt plates ($25 misc. steel) or purchase (Scout Madness $200 set of four).
Install reconditioned axle (new bearings, seals, grease, etc..) with new 9/16" dia. U-bolts ($40 for four)and U-Bolt Plates.
Purchase and Install new front drive shaft with extra long slip yoke ($300) from Gloeco Inc (16" of travel on slip yoke, highly recommended for reverse shackle front end).
Purchase and install new adjustable front drag link ($125) from Giddum up Scout.
Install 1969 2wd rear Nissan Bump Stops ($55 pr)(Nissan calls them overload springs. They are large double donuts of rubber. These are way better than the urethane ones. ).
Pry off the sheet metal cab that is located on top of the axle vent. Purchase 6' of 3/8" fuel line and one small hose clamp ($10).
Press the fuel line over the exposed vent and tighten small hose clamp to secure line at axle.
Route fuel line to clear exhaust and wire tie to fire wall with one or two small coils in hose Check for proper length when axle is completely un weighted..
Check brake lines for proper length with axle fully extended .
Optional
Longer Braided Stainless Steel Brake Lines. (The 1/2 ton Chevy lines work , but you need to slightly drill out
the fitting that holds the line to the Caliper. The Scout caliper brake line bolt is a little larger then the 1/2 ton
Chevy)
Detroit Locker ($500) or ARB.
Dual Shocks (but highly recommended).
1/8" thick Chrome differential cover ($30).
Step 3 Rear End
Remove rear Axle.
Tear down Axle.
Measure distance from outside bearing plate and grind off spring perches.
Install Detroit ($500) or ARB Locker and 4.10 gears ($200).
Redrill Centering pin location on new lift springs so that the axle is centered in the wheel well (usually about 1/2" to 1" from the existing hole towards the rear of the Scout).
Install 3-4" lift Springs.($include in front price above)
Fabricate Binder Bunch increased ground clearance U-Bolt plates ($25 misc. steel) or purchase (Scout Madness $200 set).
Install reconditioned axle (new bearings, seals, grease, etc..) with new 9/16" dia. U-Bolts ($40 for four) and U-Bolt Plates.
Snug U-bolts with spring perches not welded and set measured distance from outside bearing plate.
With the weight on the axle, I usually move the jack stands to the axle tubes and using a bottle jack located just below the yoke I jack until
the pinion yoke is pointing so that it is not quite on a direct line to the T-Case (slightly below lined up).
Finally tighten U-Bolts and weld perches in place.
Purchase and Install new thick walled 2 1/2" or 3" dia. Rear drive shaft ($225) with 1/2 ton Chevy P/U front slip yoke.
Install 1969 2wd rear Nissan Bump Stops ($55 pr)(Nissan calls them overload springs. They are large double donuts of rubber. These are way better than the urethane ones. ).
Pry off the sheet metal cab that is located on top of the axle vent. Purchase 6' of 3/8" fuel line and one small hose clamp ($10).
Press the fuel line over the exposed vent and tighten small hose clamp to secure line at axle.
Route fuel line to clear exhaust and any other obstacles, remover rear taillight and wire tie to rear taillight wiring near bulb
(leave 6" pointing down from taillight). Check for proper length when axle is completely un weighted.
Check brake lines for proper length with axle fully extended .
Optional
Longer Braided Stainless Steel Brake Lines. (The 1/2 ton Chevy lines work , but you need to slightly drill out
the fitting that holds the line to the Caliper. The Scout caliper brake line bolt is a little larger then the 1/2 ton
Chevy)
1"-2" longer shackles depending on how the front end sits relative to the rear ( I prefer the rear end to be slightly higher
so that when I am loaded down with camping gear, gas,and kids it is level)Scout Madness sell these ($40 pr for rear).
Rear Disc Brakes($100 used parts)or TSM sells a kit for Scout II's.
1/8" thick Chrome differential cover (good for the added thickness not the chrome) ($30).
Step 4 Engine, Transmission , Transfer case, and clutch
345 or 392 motor.
T-19 wide ration transmission.
1980 Scout II Dana 300 Transfer case ($500+ used). If you shop around you might find a better price (There is a rumor floating
around that a couple of the Binder Bunch members are working on an adapter for the Jeep Dana 300 to bolt up to the Scout
T-18 / T-19 4spd Transmission. I will keep you posted).
Twin stick shifter($50 used jeep or old scout shifters and a new twin stick boot) for running around in 2wd low range off road. (Once you put the
Detroit locker in the rear end you will be pleasantly surprised by the amount of 2-wheeling you can do off-road.)
12" Borg - Beck Clutch assembly with greasable throwout bearing ($230).
Optional
Tachometer for engine ($100).
Headers from Stan's ($230 painted)for your IH motor.
(3) core radiator ($425 new).
Step 5 Body Lift
I recommend a 1/2" body lift (I usually purchase a 2 1/4" dia. x 10" long piece of machinable nylon rod $40 from the local plastic warehouse and cut it into 1/2" spacers) with 33" tires.
You can use the factory bolts since they are long enough.
Lower fan shroud 1/2" with fabricated brackets ( 1" x 1/8" steel strap $5 cut to appropriate length with two 1/4" dia
holes 1/2" apart).
Lengthen clutch rod 1/2".
Step 6 Interior and off-road gear.
Purchase and Install a roll bar ($200).
Purchase and Install a Fire Extinguisher ($20).
Purchase 3/8" links x 10' long Logging Chain ($125 in Warn kit).
Purchase Tree protector strap ($ in Warn kit).
Purchase Snatch block ($in Warn kit).
Purchase 3" tow strap ($45) (from experience the 2" strap does not hold up to the wear and tear).
2- ton bottle jack ($25).
Star wrench for wheels ($15).
40 channel CB with no more then a 4' antenna ($125)( see pictures of my Scout for mounting Ideas). Whip antenna 's are dangerous off-road.
Optional
(3) piece weld together roll cage from Dick Cepek ($200). (Hint: I recommend extending the feet of the roll cage by welding a 4"x4" x1/4" thick piece of steel to the feet so that the front bodymount bolt can go through the feet.)
Roll bar padding.
New Seats with side support.
Step 7 Misc. Items
Beef up the frame ($25 misc. steel) at the Steering box and front driver and passenger body mounts.
Dual Optima Batteries wired in parallel ($260 pr).
85 amp or higher alternator ($65).
Boosted power steering ($1)pump (you will need it with the locker in the front).
My two favorite tires are T/A Mudders($520 set of four) (Best for mud and rock) and Dick Cepek Fun Country's (Best for snow and rock).
Steel 10" wide wheels ($320 for set of four)(Aluminum work, but you will scratch them up 4-wheeling and the beads tend
to come off easier when airing down.).
Purchase and Install an electric Warn Winch (#10,000 $900 or #8000 $600) and bumper ($300). Install hooks ($20) for tow strap.
Optional
Purchase and Install new high output head lights from JC Whitney. Purchase a 12V headlight relay
(the factory wiring is not adequate) and H-4 bulbs ($50).
Transmission cooler for power steering ($30).
33 gallon replacement gas tank ($320)(Giddum up Scout sells these).
Electric fuel pump at tank ($45).
Your Privacy Choices